tales from vama veche
Vama Veche (Name meaning: The Old Border) administratively belongs to the Limanu commune.
The locality is situated in Dobrogea, on the shore of the Black Sea,
very close to the border with Bulgaria.
2013 - 2019
The Places
Most of the tourists who visited Vama Veche before the road was modernized and the border opened were students, pupils, or individuals looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. Later on, tourism evolved; the number of visitors increased, and many no longer sought tranquility but rather fun and parties. Consequently, the main street is now filled with bars and terraces. Between the localities of 2 Mai and Vama Veche, the coastline is theoretically protected by a comprehensive natural reserve (both terrestrial and maritime). However, due to a lack of funds and public awareness, this part of the Romanian coast faces exploitation and pollution during the summer.
Near the shore lies the wreckage of a former Greek ship, Akra Aktion, which ran aground in 1981. This wreck has become one of the attractions of the area. Over the years, the wreckage has been used as a target by the Navy. By 2013, the wreckage was in an advanced state of decay.
The Moments
Being a border area with limited access, this village of the Limanu commune was not frequented by tourists during the communist dictatorship. The phenomenon of "Vama Veche" (good music, bohemian spirit, a certain intellectual flair) emerged in the 1970s when the Babes-Bolyai University from Cluj-Napoca sent university professors here for recreation every summer. They arrived in organized groups, lived in locals' houses, and dined at the university's canteen. This influx brought about a vibrant cultural atmosphere, introducing the local inhabitants to significant events and people, a rarity for a simple fishing village in communist Romania.
By the late 1980s, Vama Veche began attracting entrepreneurs from Ploiești and Bucharest, leading to the establishment of small local businesses and restaurants that have since flourished.
THE PEOPLE
The first restaurants in Vama were BIBI Bistro, Rădulescu, La Mitocanu, now known as Lyana. BIBI became renowned for hosting genuine jazz and blues concerts in the early 2000s, further solidifying the resort's reputation for freedom of expression and artistic vocation.
While Vama Veche was once known as a secluded fishing village preferred by nudists, its popularity surged in recent years, partly due to the music promoted by the band Vama Veche. As a result, the locality has undergone significant transformations, attracting both praise and criticism for its changing character. This evolution led to the formation of the "Save Vama Veche" movement by those who lamented the loss of the village's old charm.
🌫️🌊🌪️🍻🦎🐍🐀🦟
Now this is the general information about Vama Veche, which is all true, but let me bring you to today and also give you some insider insights.
Vama Veche was once considered a sort of Balkan paradise, both during Communism and in the years that followed, even though its decline was becoming increasingly evident.
I was born in '97, after the fall of the regime. However, those who experienced Communism firsthand often told me that Vama Veche seemed untouched by its strict rules.
From soldiers patrolling peacefully among sunbathing nudists (since Vama Veche and 2 Mai were renowned for their acceptance of nudism) to young people spending months on the beach in tents surrounded by art, culture, affordable healthy meals, vibrant parties, a sense of community, a less intense sun, and a noticeable absence of consumerism.
By 2024, Vama Veche has fallen prey to corrupt tourism and entertainment industries. Prices have soared, and the very essence of its free spirit has been eroded by consumerism and greed. Consequently, the kind of people frequenting the area has changed, and it's no longer as safe as it once was.
While I never experienced Vama Veche at its prime, it remained somewhat tolerable before the pandemic. However, after the pandemic, I've heard more police sirens in Vama Veche in a single day than ever before. Prices have doubled, conditions have worsened, some of the best establishments have shut down, and the new ones don't live up to expectations. Additionally, the maintenance of the beach itself appears neglected. Everything used to be affordable, and the music was diverse and of high quality.